Guildford's Friary Brewery

The text below has sat on my computer, in more-or-less the form in which I am now posting it, for more than five years. I had planned to make this part of a wider project that included things other than a straight-forward history of the brewery, and I do worry this might be a little dry. But I do occasionally I get emails about Guildford's now-defunct Friary Brewery, presumably because my blog is one of few sources to come up in a Google search, which makes me think it would be better to just get this information out there. So, here is everything I could find out about the Friary Brewery.

Guildford is a weird place. It’s not a new town: the first known references to it are in the will of Alfred the Great. But it often feels like a new town: the unglamorous, unattractive, post-war kind that Radio 4 comedians make disparaging jokes about. Walk out of the train station and you’re confronted with a grim spaghetti of roads and underpasses, sympathetic only to cars. It’s the sort of place where, to cross the road, you need to wait at three or four pelican crossings. What awaits on the other side is a bland shopping centre: the Friary.

It would be lovely to think that the Friary shopping centre was named after the brewery it replaced, but this is not the case. In fact, both businesses took their name from a distant former occupant of the site - a medieval monastery. The monastic house existed from some time in the late 13^th century until 1538.ⁱ I’m not sure what was done with the space between then and 1865, when Thomas Taunton established the Friary Brewery. This enterprise was originally a partnership with his brother Silas, but he left in 1873 and Thomas went into business with Charles Hoskin Master, at which point the brewery site in Guildford was occupied. Master subsequently bought the business outright. ⁱⁱ

Beginning a continual process of absorbing other local breweries, Master acquired Holryods of Byfleet in 1889 and it was in this year that he first officially registered the business. A further acquisition, Healys in Chertsey, was made the next year. The company name was officially updated to Friary, Holroyd & Healy’s in 1895ⁱⁱⁱ, but continued to be generally known as ‘Friary’.

The Guildford brewery was an important local employer and the brewery also played other community roles. Aside from a football team, Friary Brewery Athletic, and a well-regarded brass band, the cellars were used as air raid shelter in the First World War^iv. In 1920 the company saved the nearby Pewley Down from development by buying 22 acres it as a gift to the town. It is now a nature reserve.^v

In 1956, Friary, Holroyd & Healy’s merged with London’s Meux brewery, probably best known as the site of an accident known as the Great Beer Flood at its Horseshoe Brewery in 1814 in which a porter huge porter vat burst, killing eight people and injuring many more.^vi Five years later, Friary Meux went into liquidation, and was taken over by Allied Breweries in 1964.^vii

Brewing at the Guildford site ceased on 23^rd January 1969^viii and production of the Friary Meux beers was moved to the brewery in Romford where Ind Coope, another Allied brand, operated.^ix The Guildford brewery was demolished in 1973. In 1978 Allied merged with food manufacturers J. Lyons and Co. to form Allied Lyons.^x

After a wilderness period, Allied revived the Friary Meux brand in 1980.^xi Their motive was probably to disguise the fact they were a faintly evil mega-corporation by spreading their output over the brand names of breweries they had acquired. Thomas Walker, another defunct Allied acquisition, got the same treatment.^xii In February 1981’s ‘London Drinker’, an anonymous “mole” revealed that the beers brewed at Romford Allied brewery were paired, with different brand names used for the same beer. Friary Meux Bitter was, they say, exactly the same as Benskin’s Bitter.^xiii Obviously this information can’t be strictly verified but the hint of espionage about the whole thing is quite exciting.

Allied Lyons merged with Carlsberg in 1992, becoming Carlsberg-Tetley – now Carlsberg UK.^xiv The brand was used into the 1990s, and it seems production of cask beer continued. An edition of the Reading Evening Post from 1997 contains an advert for a real ale-focused pub, The Plough in Tilehurst, who boast “ale pulled by hand from the cask, just as nature intended”, and lists Friary Meux as one of its regular fixtures^xv. Exactly when the use of the brand fizzled out isn’t clear, and indeed it may not have vanished entirely. The most recent sighting I’m aware of is a bizarre one – a ‘smooth bitter’ on keg in a discount pub in Woking called The Pound. Blogger Ed Wray, who made this discovery in 2016, called this an example of “neo-retro” branding – an old name attached to a new product, likely never produced whilst Friary Meux was a going concern.^xvi

The Beers

The earliest record of Friary’s range that I have come across dates from 1881. This advertises two mild ales – XX and the presumably stronger XXX^xvii – sold young and fresh. A strong stock ale, XXXX, would have been aged at the brewery before sale. There are also two bitters, a stout, a porter and a bottled Dinner Ale.^xviii A 1909 advert for bottled ‘Invalid’ Stout carries an amazing endorsement from a medical “analyst” and the imperative, “Resist influenza by drinking Friary Invalid Stout.”^xix

The Dinner Ale got a big push in the early 20^th century. This was probably a bottled version of the brewery’s weakest bitter, or perhaps a lighter beer parti-gyled with a bitter. Beers like these – usually referred to as ‘light ale’ in the subsequent decades – always had a very low ABV, usually little over 3% and sometimes barely more than 2%.^xx

Lightness was this beer’s main selling point. It was marketed as bright and refreshing, especially in summer. Friary also sold it as an alternative to lager. The brewery filed a trade mark on the name ‘Anglo-Lager Beer’ as early as 1885^xxi, but this seems to refer to the Dinner Ale, which they marketed as an English equivalent to lager.^xxii

In 1914, perhaps playing on anti-German sentiment during the First World War, they ran ads that read, “Have you been drinking Lager Beer made in Germany? Why not try a British brewed beer! Friary Dinner Ale! Is light! Like! Lager Beer!”^xxiii The following year, something simply referred to as Friary Ale was advertised as “like lager, but British”.^xxiv The ad also read “high quality, low alcoholic strength”, so this may have been Dinner Ale in another guise.

The First World War was tough on Friary, as it was on the whole brewing industry. Pre-war beers were strong and sold in great quantities. In 1913, the UK produced one sixth of all the world’s beer. It took until 1974 for the 1913 volumes to be exceeded. Taxes on brewers increased enormously, and they were forced to dramatically reduce their usage of malt.^xxv In 1918, Friary placed adverts in the local press apologising for a shortage in wines and spirits.^xxvi Weirdly it doesn’t mention beer, but it seems likely their output would have dropped significantly around this time. Most of their beers in the 1930s were in the region of 3-4% - a 1935 bottled Double Stout, which sounds as though it would be strong, was just 3.33%.^xxvii A celebratory Coronation Ale was released in 1937, which was marketed as a “strong ale” and sold in nip bottles^xxviii, but there is no way of knowing how strong it really was.

In 1924, the brewery pulled off a clever publicity stunt. To prove the integrity of its Special Stout in crown corked bottles, it sent a batch around the world on a ship. This voyage included twice passing through the “tropics”, subjecting the beer to both extremes of, and fluctuations in, temperature. In a newspaper advert, they boasted, “The result clearly demonstrates the fact that Friary Special Stout in crown cork bottles cannot turn sour, and can safely be relied upon to open in good condition whenever and wherever required – a rare virtue in bottled stout.”

Friary sent a bottle each to twelve local hotels, and arranged for each venue to open a bottle at 8pm on Tuesday September 23rd 1924, “to give as many people as possible an opportunity to see the splendid condition of this wonderful stout, after its thoroughly conclusive test.”^xxix There’s no way of knowing if they really did send a crate of stout on the holiday of a lifetime but either way, it strikes me that Friary were ahead of the time with this kind of synchronised release at multiple venues, a strategy used by breweries today.

The Second World War was a little kinder to brewers. Average strengths did not decrease as drastically – only by about 10%, and output actually increased.^xxx However Friary’s supply was affected. In 1944 they advertised in local papers explaining that bottled beer would be “in very short supply”, because of withdrawal of labour from their bottling department.^xxxi

The strong beers popular before the First World War were slow to return, though, and WW2 tax hikes meant there was little incentive for brewers to make them^xxxii. By the late 1940s some stronger beers were returning to the market. Friary Audit Ale appeared in the early 1950s and clocked in at around 8%.^xxxiii It was sold in small ‘nip’ bottles and marketed as a winter warmer – “just the thing for a warming cold weather drink.”^xxxiv

The concept of Audit Ale originates at Oxford and Cambridge universities. Special feasts were held after the annual audit of College accounts, with strong beers – perhaps as strong as 10% - brewed for the occasion. Some audit ales would have been made by breweries on College premises, whilst others were commissioned from commercial breweries.

Audit ales became known for their potency, and an increasing number of commercial breweries began to imitate them and sell their audit ales to the general public, rather than to the Oxbridge colleges.^xxxv Friary made one such example. Tatler Magazine recommended it mulled with spices and possibly a glug of rum^xxxvi, or mixed with a bottle of XXXX for “a potent remover of ills and chills.”^xxxvii

In 2016, Friary Audit Ale made an unexpected comeback courtesy of The Little Beer Corporation, a modern craft brewery based in Guildford. The head brewer was inspired after tasting a 47 year-old bottle of Audit Ale, supposedly one of the last off the bottling line at the Guildford site, and set out to recreate it. The intellectual property rights were still owned by Carlsberg UK who, perhaps surprisingly, granted a six-month license to brew and sell the brew on a limited-edition basis. There was apparently no recorded recipe for the original, so Little Beer made an interpretation of the bottle they had sampled^xxxviii. I was keen to try it, but the brewery never responded to my attempts to contact them, so I didn’t get the chance. In 2018 the Little Beer Corporation sold their business to Crafty Brewing Company, based in Dunsfold^xxxix.

After the merger, Friary Meux beers included XXXX (a Burton Ale), brown ale and Night Cap Stout. There was also the pale ale Treble Gold, which was around during the 1960s and, for Boak and Bailey ”perhaps bolsters the argument for ‘golden ale’ having existed as a vague Idea long before Exmoor and Hop Back crystallised and marketed the concept.”^xl

I hate to boast about my youthfulness, but the Guildford brewery closed some 20 years before I was born and, whilst the Friary Meux name just barley clung on into my lifetime, it had vanished again by the time I was of drinking age.

There is little detailed information about what these beers actually tasted like. In a pre-Untappd, pre-Michael Jackson world, tasting notes weren’t kept in the same way as they might be today. Anecdotally, Friary Meux beers from the Allied years are remembered fondly by some, derided by others.

Ed Wray, a blogger and brewer at Hepworth in West Sussex, describes Friary Meux Bitter as “unexciting”, and recalls that it was known locally as ‘Friary Muck’^xli. The 1991 Good Beer Guide called the beer “darker than average, moderately malty with a strange apple like fruitiness. Thin and unremarkable.”^xlii Sounds like, at best, a 2/5 on Untappd, in today’s parlance.

Veteran CAMRA organiser John Cryne is a little more charitable – he recalls Friary Meux Bitter as “pleasant enough”, and credits Allied’s revival of Friary and other regional brands in the 1980s with getting cask beer reintroduced to pubs that had stopped bothering.^xliii

“In spite of the heavy tax on beer, it still remains the favourite beverage of the Britisher; and it is good for the nation that it is so, for beer today is the purest drink obtainable – in fact it is much purer than milk. The old pantomime joke that beer is no longer made from malt and hops must appear very poor after a visit to the Friary Brewery, where there is ample evidence not only of the amount of these materials used, but of the studied care which is taken in selecting only the finest materials obtainable.” ^xliv

The above quote is taken from a pamphlet given to those who had taken a tour of the brewery in the 1930s, which gives some insight into how the beers were made, at least. The Guildford site was a traditional tower brewery. Malt was milled at the top of the tower, then transferred by chutes to mash tuns on the floor below. Water was sourced from a well on site.^xlv Locally grown hops were used, “for it has been found that they help to produce that distinctive flavour so popular with Friary customers, and it is also a happy means of supporting local industries.”^xlvi

Hop growing in Surrey was based in Farnham, a little over ten miles away from Guildford. A photograph in the pamphlet shows “pockets” of hops from Weydon Farm, adorned with the distinctive ‘Farnham bell’ design used by hop farms in the area.^xlvii

Capacity in the 1930s was almost 140,000 gallons, and fermentation took seven days. Most fermentation vessels were open, with yeast skimmed off the top for reuse or disposal. Some closed vessels were used, although the section of the pamphlet on this is nearly incomprehensible. I think the idea was that gas generated in the closed fermenters was collected and used in the bottling process.

The brewery was partially powered by a diesel engine, described as a “regal sight for boys of all ages” and clearly a highlight of the brewery tour. The brewery were evidently proud of the purity of their air, which is said to fend off infections in open fermenters and during the bottling process. It’s difficult to read this historical document now without longing for the visit to the sampling room that took place at the end, winkingly described as “by no means the most unpleasant feature of the tour.”^xlviii

Friary Meux in the evidence room

In the early 1960s, Friary Meux produced Pipkin, a 7-pin can of bitter similar to the better known Party Seven produced by Watneys. Confusingly other breweries seem to have similar products also called Pikin, including Ind Coope – however Friary Meux made theirs before the Allied takeover.

An advert for Pipkin, taken from a rugby programme (hence the outfit)

In 1963, a Pipkin can became a pivotal piece of evidence in the arrest of Robert ‘Bobby’ Welch, a member of the Great Train Robbery gang. Police found a number of these cans in a cupboard at the gang’s hideout at Leatherslade Farm, Buckinghamshire^xlix, one of which bore a palm print that matched Welch’s. This brings to mind funny images of Welch holding an enormous 7-pint can in one hand, but I don’t think that’s what was actually happening. Regardless, Welch’s thirst for Friary Meux Bitter was his undoing. The short shelf life of the Pipkin cans helped to place him at the farm, and officers visited the brewery to inspect the remaining cans in the same batch. Retailers who had sold six or more cans at one time were questioned by the police.^l

Prosecuting lawyer Howard Sabin said in court, “In their preparations the raiders had not neglected to consider the question of some liquid refreshment. A number of Pipkin beer cans – a slightly unusual sort – were found.” The can baring Welch’s palm print was numbered, and police traced it to a shop in Bicester, not far from the Leatherslade Farm hideout, where they were sold the night before the robbery.^li

And that's it: everything I was able to discover about this historical brewery. I hope it's of use of interest to someone.

Incidentally, this is my first post here in years and is likely to be the last on this blog. Thanks for reading. If you like films, you can check out what I'm doing now at Cinéclub.

i^ ‘Guildford Black Friary’, Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guildford_Black_Friary, retrieved 19^th August 2020

ii^ ‘A Drop of the Hard and the Soft Stuff’, David Rose, The Guildford Dragon, 27^th February 2012, https://www.guildford-dragon.com/2012/02/27/through-time-a-drop-of-the-hard-and-the-soft-stuff/, retrieved 16^th August 2020

iii^ Brewery History Wiki, http://breweryhistory.com/wiki/index.php?title=Friary,_Holroyd_%26_Healy%27s_Breweries_Ltd, retrieved 16^th August 2020

iv^ Great War Britain Guildford: Remembering 1914-1918, Dave Rose, 2013. Stroud: The History Press

v^ Evening Mail, 30^th July 1920. Accessed via The British Newspaper Archive, 14^th February 2021

vi^ ‘Meux Reid & Co.’, Roger Protz, 2001, in Garrett Oliver (ed.) The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford: Oxford University Press

vii^ The Brewing Industry: A Guide to Historical Records, Lesley Richmond & Alison Turton (eds.) 1990. Manchester & New York: Manchester University Press

viii^ ‘A Peak Inside the Friary Brewery’, David Rose, The Guildford Dragon, 27^th February 2012, https://www.guildford-dragon.com/2012/02/27/a-peek-inside-the-friary-brewery/, retrieved 16^th August 2020

ix^ ‘Ind Coope & Sons’, Roger Protz, 2001, in Garrett Oliver (ed.) The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford: Oxford University Press

x^ ‘Reproduction of Friary Meux’s Audit Ale’, The British Guild of Beer Writers News, https://www.beerguild.co.uk/news/reproduction-of-friary-meuxs-audit-ale/, retrieved 16^th August 2020

xi^ ‘Mainlining with Ind Coope’, Alan Greenwood, London Drinker Vol. 2, No.2, March 1980, https://londondrinker.camra.org.uk/LD/1980/LDvol2_2.pdf, retrieved 19^th August 2020

xii^ ‘Taylor Walker, the brewery name that just won’t die’, Martyn Cornell, Zythophile blog, 4^th October 2010, http://zythophile.co.uk/2010/10/04/taylor-walker-the-brewery-name-that-just-wont-die/, retrieved 16^th August 2020

xiii^ ‘Look a gift horse in the mouth’, London Drinker Vol. 3, No.1, February 1981, https://londondrinker.camra.org.uk/LD/1981/LDvol3_1.pdf, retrieved 16^th August 2020

xiv^ ‘Reproduction of Friary Meux’s Audit Ale’, The British Guild of Beer Writers News

xv^ Reading Evening Post, 24^th October 1997. Accessed via the The British Newspaper Archive, 13^th February 2021

xvi^ ‘The Pound pub’, Ed Wray, Ed’s Beer Site, 20^th December 2016, https://edsbeer.blogspot.com/2016/12/the-pound-pub.html, retrieved 4^th February 2021

xvii^ ‘Everything you wanted to know about X’, Martyn Cornell, Zythophile blog, 28^th February 2008, http://zythophile.co.uk/2008/02/28/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-x/, retrieved 25^th February 2021

xviii^ Aldershot Military Gazette, 17^th December 1881. Accessed via the British Newspaper Archive, 24^th February 2021

xix^ Surrey Advertiser, 27^th March 1909. Accessed via the British Newspaper Archive, 24^th February 2021

xx^ ‘Light ale in the 1950s, Ron Pattinson, Shut Up About Barclay Perkins blog, 14^th April 2015, http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2015/04/light-ale-in-1950s.html, retrieved 25^th February 2021

xxi^ Brewery History Wiki, http://breweryhistory.com/wiki/index.php?title=Friary,_Holroyd_%26_Healy%27s_Breweries_Ltd, retrieved 16^th August 2020

xxii^ ‘The Further History of Lager in the UK’, Paul Dabrowski, Mine’s A Pint #43, Autumn 2017, https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/59472760/mines-a-pint-issue-43, retrieved 19^th August 2020

xxiii^ Surrey Advertiser, 26^th September 1914. Accessed via the British Newspaper Archive, 24^th February 2021

xxiv^ Surrey Advertiser, 15^th May 1915. Accessed via the British Newspaper Archive, 14^th February 2021

xxv^ War!, Ron Pattinson, 2013. Amsterdam: Kilderkin

xxvi^ Surrey Advertiser, 6^th July 1918. Accessed via The British Newspaper Archive, 13^th February 2021

xxvii^ ‘Friary Holryod and Friary Meux beers 1926-1967’, Ron Pattinson, Shut Up About Barclay Perkins blog, 22^nd February 2021, https://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2021/02/friary-holroyd-and-friary-meux-beers.html, retrieved 22^nd February 2021

xxviii^ Hampshire Advertiser, 15^th May 1937. Accessed via British Newspaper Archives, 24^th February 2021

xxix^ South of England Advertiser, 18^th September 1924. Accessed via British Newspaper Archive, 18^th August 2020

xxx^ ‘War’, Ron Pattinson, Shut Up About Barclay Perkins blog, 1^st January 2008, https://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2008/01/war.html, retrieved 14^th February 2021

xxxi^ West Sussex County Times, 21^st July 1944. Accessed via British Newspaper Archives, 13^th February 2021

xxxii^ War!, Ron Pattinson, 2013. Amsterdam: Kilderkin

xxxiii^ ‘A nip in the air calls for’, Ron Pattinson, Shut Up About Barclay Perkins blog, 18^th August 2019, https://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-nip-in-air-calls-for.html, retrieved 16^th August 2020

xxxiv^ Bognor Regis Observer, 3^rd December 1954. Accessed via the British Newspaper Archive, 13^th February 2021

xxxv^ ‘Audit ale – a short history’, John A.R. Compton-Davey, Brewery History #128, 2009, http://www.breweryhistory.com/journal/archive/128/Audit.pdf, retrieved 16^th August 2020

xxxvi^ The Tatler, 18^th January 1956. Accessed via the British Newspaper Archive, 24^th February 2021

xxxvii^ The Tatler, 11^th July 1956. Accessed via the British Newspaper Archive, 24^th February 2021

xxxviii^ ‘Reproduction of Friary Meux’s Audit Ale’, The British Guild of Beer Writers News

xxxix^ ‘Little Beer Corp sold to Crafty Brewing Co’, Beer Today, 16^th December 2018, https://beertoday.co.uk/little-beer-corp-crafty-beer-co-1218/, retrieved 19^th August 2020

xl^ ‘Bits We Underlined In… Surrey Pubs, 1965’, Jessica Boak and Ray Bailey, Boak & Bailey, 24^th May 2016, https://boakandbailey.com/2016/05/bits-underlined-surrey-pubs-1965/, retrieved 16^th August 2020

xli^ Email correspondence with Ed Wray

xlii^ ‘Friary Meux – Gone but not forgotten’, Anthony Springall, Mad Cow Issue 54, February-April 2019, https://issuu.com/camrabse/docs/madcow54, retrieved 17^th August 2020

xliii^ Comment on The Fatal Glass of Beer blog, http://thefatalglassofbeer.blogspot.com/2021/02/do-you-remember-drinking-friary-meux.html#comment-form, 20^th February 2021

xliv^ ‘A Modern Brewery’, H.C. Vickery in Guildford Museum, A Souvenir of Your Visit to The Friary Brewery Guildford, 2004. Originally printed by Billing & Sons of Guildford, early 1930s

xlv^ ‘The Evolution of Guildford’, L.M Budden in Geography Vol. 29, No.4, December 1944, pp. 114-122

xlvi^ ‘A Modern Brewery’, H.C. Vickery

xlvii^ ‘The Farnham Whitebine Hop’, Ed Wray, Brewery History #147, 2012, http://www.breweryhistory.com/journal/archive/147/Hops.pdf, retrieved 19^th August 2020

xlviii^ ‘A Modern Brewery’, H.C. Vickery

xlix^ ‘Great Train Robbery Evidence’, Wayne Porteous, The Mirror, 8^th August 2013, https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/gallery/great-train-robbery-evidence-2140635, retrieved 16th August 2020

l^ The Great Train Robbery: A New History, Jim Morris, 2013. Stroud: Amberley Publishing

li^ ‘Mail Case Clue of a Pipkin Beer Can’, Arthur Smith, Daily Mirror 31^st October 1963. Accessed via the The British Newspaper Archive, 14^th February 2021

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